Praise for the Weatherman - and David. (Isles of Shoals and Gloucester)

Looking towards Portsmouth from Isles of Shoals.  Weatherman was correct - chance of thunderstorms along the coast.  We were far away from the coast.

As the weatherman predicted the rain and winds and seas all diminished as Tuesday wore on.  We left the dock at 11:00am.  All morning log we checked the NOAA weather site, and got the reports from the buoys between Portland and Isles of Shoals.  We watched the sea reports diminish from 5 feet to 3 feet, and the wind died from 25 knots down to 15.  "Let's go!" he said.  And so we did.  We sailed a good portion of the day, a good steady wind from the NNW, and the seas were not a problem at all.  It was nice to be sailing again.  As I've said before, we haven't sailed much visiting the islands in Casco Bay.  They are so close to each other, and there are so many lobster pots to avoid that we have motored from place to place.  As the afternoon wore on we realized that the wind was dying and if we wanted to be at Isles of Shoals (42 miles) before 6pm we would have to motor again.  So we power sailed the rest of the way there, getting there at 5:45pm.  Just in time to get a mooring and enjoy the scenery.  Last time we were here it was sweltering hot, close to 100 degrees.  Today, it was chilly - so chilly I had on my long jeans, 2 shirts and a fleece vest.  Last time we were here it was packed! Boats all over the place! This time I think there was a total of 10 boats, and lots of moorings available.  Last time we had to anchor.  Last time a loud party boat pulled in about sunset adding to the discomfort we were already enduring from the mosquitoes and flies.  This time it was quiet, peaceful, no mosquitoes (we had flies accompany us on our trip there) and a beautiful sunset.  Wikipedia describes the Isles of Shoals as "a place where the islands float and the water sinks."  What an accurate description.

Islands that float - water that sinks.

We headed out early on Wednesday for Gloucester. It was a beautiful day, we thought we could sail, but as soon as we pulled out of the harbor the winds died down to about 4-5 knots, and as the day progressed never went over 10 knots.  Not good for Obsession.  She likes at least 12, loves 15-17.  It was a gorgeous, sunny and comfortable day.  Not too warm, but the sun was bright, the skies a beautiful blue.  Destination Gloucester - about 26 miles away.  About half way to Gloucester the engine started to overheat again.  David cleaned out the strainer again (this had become a daily ritual since our experience on our overnight earlier in the month).  But that didn't work.  About an hour later it overheated again.  So, he checked the oil.  That's ok.  Must be the impeller.  At first glance he thought it was OK, but after one more overheating incident he decided that he'd better try to replace it.  He must have worked at it for over an hour while I tried desperately to sail this "bus" in 4-5 knot winds.  Our trail on the gps looked like a the path of a drunken sailor! Unfortunately David couldn't remove the damaged impeller. It's in a place that makes it hard to reach without a tool called an "impeller puller".  Sooooo, he gave it a tap or two to push it back in and said a prayer.  We motored at a lower rpm the remaining miles to Gloucester and managed to get here, and pick up a mooring.  ($25.00)

I guess the fishermen needed two lighthouses to find their way back to Gloucester in the fog after months at sea! 

Gloucester has an interesting waterfront - a mixture of a quaint village with the industrialized, working waterfront. 

We went ashore, tried to find the harbormaster (nowhere to be found), wandered around the shops, found a Walgreen's to refill some prescriptions, and made reservations at a French Restaurant for dinner.  I must say, Duckworth's Bistro was one of the highlights of our stay here in Gloucester.  Not only was the food delicious, but we met 2 elderly gentlemen at the bar (that's the only place we could get a reservation) and had an enjoyable dinner and conversation with them.  FRIED lobster tails for me, seafood stew for David and we shared a flourless chocolate cake for dessert.  But the best was our salad - almost an Eggs Benedict without all the fat and carbs.  Frissee and crumbled bacon with a honey viniagrette dressing topped with a perfectly poached egg!  It was different and refreshing.

Look closely at the sign above the windows!

Fish Tales?

We decided to stay an extra day so David could get the tool ($80.00) he needed to remove the impeller, and enjoy  the city a bit more.  His chore didn't take as long as he expected, and lo and behold, the impeller was damaged.  (He threw it away before I could take a picture of it).  By lunchtime we were ready to go ashore, get some fresh water and coffee (Dunkin' Donuts) and lunch in a true diner. A perfect shaved roast beef sandwich.  No frills, just roast beef and a toasted roll.

After lunch we took a dinghy tour around the harbor.  Gloucester has several different harbors.  The waterfront is lined with industry, fish processing plants, and large (and I mean large) fishing boats.  There is one section, the North End which has become an arts colony, (that's where Duckworth's Bistro was).  For sure Gloucester will be a definite stop on our trip to and from Maine in the future.  There are restaurants galore, the shops are simple and don't appear to be overpriced.

There are about 3 ships similar to this in this shipyard all in a different state of dis/repair.

 And the harbor is an interesting place to sit on the boat and watch the fishing, lobster, pleasure, boats go by.  The people we have met here are friendly (someone on a trawler on a mooring behind us came by last night to ask if we wanted him to get us some lobsters - he was heading to the lobster pound).  Next time we'll take him up on the offer, but I think we've had enough lobster for a while.

A BIG fishing boat.  Too big for my camera!

We will head to Scituate today.  We have met Jane and Mike from Tiverton (JAMIN) and they will be heading the same way.  We had cocktails with them last night, and learned we have a lot in common.  Pray that the engine doesn't overheat again - David says there could still be some pieces of the broken impeller in the lines and in the engine that might cause a problem.  I'm thinking he got them all when he flushed lines.

Gloucester sunset

PS - We got to Scituate.

Scituate Harbor Yacht Club

Engine DID NOT overheat.  Very crowded harbor, but we have a good mooring right in front of the Yacht Club.  Nice showers, nice clubhouse, WIFI (so I could download pictures and finish this blog).  $35.00/night includes launch service.  David is happy - he doesn't have to put down the dinghy.  We will head to and through the canal tomorrow morning - can't go through until about 2:00pm.